Clothing is seen as more than just a basic necessity; it also reflects personal style and social identity. However, the fast fashion industry, which thrives on constantly changing trends and cheaply produced garments, carries hidden costs. The pollution generated from the production, shipping, and sale of fast fashion poses a serious threat to biodiversity in our environment. Let's explore this complex relationship and determine whether nature can withstand the pressures of profit-making.
Understanding Fast Fashion
Fast fashion is all about the rapid production of trendy and affordable clothing. The clothes are stylish, but not of lasting quality. This model encourages consumers to frequently update their wardrobes, often with little regard for the long-term consequences of what happens to clothes that are thrown away.
According to Dr Lorna Christie, a researcher on consumer decision-making at the Department of Life Sciences, College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences (CAES), "Clothing overconsumption is on the rise in Africa, including South Africa, and a major reason for this is the acceleration of the fast-fashion cycle. Fashion companies have drastically changed their collection offerings," says Christie. "A decade ago, only two collections a year were available. Nowadays, some brands and fashion houses put out two collections a month or even more - up to 16 collections a year. We are also seeing this trend in South Africa."
Consequently, the fashion industry ranks among the largest global polluters, producing approximately 92 million tons of textile waste each year. The pollution is significant, but there is an even greater concern regarding its impact on the planet's biodiversity.
The Connection Between Fast Fashion and Biodiversity
Biodiversity encompasses the rich variety of life on Earth, including different ecosystems, species, and genetic diversity. This variety is crucial for ecological stability, as it supports resilience against environmental changes and disturbances. It also provides essential services that humans rely on, such as pollination for crops, climate moderation through natural processes, and clean water through well-functioning ecosystems. Fast fashion hurts biodiversity in several critical ways.
The Quantis International 2018 report revealed that the primary contributors to the global pollution impacts of the industry are dyeing and finishing (36%), yarn preparation (28%), and fibre production (15%). The report also indicated that fibre production has the most significant effect on freshwater withdrawal (water taken from surface water or groundwater sources) and ecosystem quality, primarily due to cotton farming. Additionally, the stages of dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation, and fibre production contribute the most to resource depletion, as they rely heavily on energy-intensive processes that use fossil fuels.
1. Land Use Change
Extensive agricultural land is needed to produce the raw materials required for fast fashion, particularly cotton and synthetic fibres. The increasing demand for these materials can result in significant deforestation.
For example, approximately 10% of global deforestation is associated with cotton production, as forests are being converted into agricultural land. This threatens the extinction of the plants and animals that once lived there. When ecosystems are disrupted and their habitats destroyed, many species become extinct.
2. Water Pollution
Fast fashion's manufacturing processes significantly contribute to water pollution. Chemicals and dyes used in textile production often find their way into local rivers, impacting both ecosystems and human health. For example, in Bangladesh, the textile industry is responsible for approximately 20% of the country’s water pollution. The toxic waste contaminates drinking water and disrupts the habitats of countless aquatic species.
3. Water Consumption
Another alarming statistic is the water consumption involved in clothing production. More than 10,000 litres of water go into manufacturing a single pair of jeans, and producing just one cotton shirt requires around 2,700 litres of water—the equivalent of what a person drinks over three years. This enormous demand can drain local water resources, especially in regions already experiencing water scarcity. This depletion contributes to the decline of freshwater habitats, directly harming species that depend on these ecosystems.
The Role of Synthetic Materials
Many fast-fashion items are made from synthetic materials like polyester, which are derived from fossil fuels. The production of these textiles is energy-intensive and emits greenhouse gases, fueling climate change, which poses a significant threat to biodiversity.
During the consumption phase, when consumers purchase, wear, and clean their clothing, they also harm the environment. Dr Christie explains: "The act of washing clothes introduces 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean annually, which amounts to the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles."
Once the clothes are discarded, synthetic materials do not biodegrade effectively. Unlike natural fibres, they accumulate in landfills, where microplastics can leach into the environment, endangering aquatic and terrestrial life. A study estimates that up to 1 million marine creatures die yearly due to plastic pollution, highlighting the wider implications of synthetic fabric waste.
The Carbon Footprint of Fast Fashion
To reach consumers, the fast fashion industry's extensive transportation networks significantly increase its carbon footprint. The fashion sector is estimated to emit 1.2 billion tons of CO2 annually—more than the emissions of all international flights and maritime shipping combined. These emissions also contribute to global warming and disrupt ecosystems.
As climate change accelerates, many species struggle to adapt to altered environments; for instance, coral reefs are bleaching at alarming rates, while habitat loss intensifies as it is replaced by agricultural and urban development. To combat this crisis, consumers must prioritise sustainable fashion choices and advocate for industry reform.
Overproduction and Waste
The demand for new clothing drives brands to overproduce garments. About 30% of clothes in stores do not get sold. Instead of recycling or repurposing excess clothing, many companies choose to destroy them, resulting in significant waste. This waste creates pollution and, again, destroys habitats surrounding landfills.
Consumer Awareness and Responsibility
Consumers have the power to influence the fashion industry significantly. By increasing and spreading awareness of fast fashion's environmental impact, individuals can force clothing manufacturers to use more sustainable practices. Opting to buy fewer pieces of durable, sustainable clothing or second-hand items can help reduce demand for mass-produced garments.
Other ways everyone can get involved are by participating in clothing swaps and supporting smaller, local brands dedicated to sustainable practices. A report suggests that if every person in the U.S. bought just one durable garment instead of fast-fashion items, it could save the equivalent of 1.6 billion gallons of water each year.
Although the above statistics originate from the U.S., they also relate to South Africans. In 2017, we spent R180 billion on clothing and textiles, which accounted for 18% of all retail sales that year. South Africa boasts a robust fashion consumer base that has been steadily growing over the years, and this trend is likely to continue.
Dr Christie says, "Globally, clothing production has roughly doubled since 2000. People bought 60% more garments in 2014 compared to the year 2000, and they only kept the clothes for half as long as before. Now, the fast-fashion cycle has increased even more, and it’s safe to say that people purchase clothing at an even faster rate."
The Role of Policy and Education
Collaboration among consumers, businesses, and governments is essential to tackle the challenges posed by fast fashion. Policymakers can introduce regulations that promote sustainable production practices. Stricter guidelines on pollution control and waste management can ensure a healthier environment.
Education is vital in nurturing a culture of sustainability. By spreading knowledge about the environmental damage caused by fast fashion, future generations will be empowered to make better choices that benefit the planet.
The Bigger Picture
The consequences of fast fashion on biodiversity are extensive and complex. Land degradation, water pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions are just a few ways our desire to look good is harming the planet, and urgent action is needed. By being more mindful of our clothing choices and purchasing fewer, higher-quality pieces, we can push manufacturers to abandon their increasingly rapid production methods. As consumers, we can demand better-quality garments that are produced in an environmentally responsible manner, which will help preserve the planet's biodiversity.
In a constantly evolving fashion landscape, it is essential for clothing manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices. Our choices in clothing not only reflect our individual style but also our commitment to protecting the environment for future generations.
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